JAMESTOWN CELEBRATES 414 YEARS

Despite tremendous hardships and tragedy, the colony gave birth to a new nation

by Rob Lauer



This May marks the 414th anniversary of the founding of Jamestown. Long heralded as the first permanent English colony in America, Jamestown initially began as an English business venture. Though it ended up being a financial failure, it proved to be a win for human freedom. A straight line can be traced from its founding to the establishment of American democracy.

Though four centuries separate us from those events, Jamestown's fascinating past is brought to life at sites across Hampton Roads, including First Landing State Park in Virginia Beach and the Jamestown Settlement and Historic Jamestowne on the Peninsula. Each year, over three million tourists from around the world come to Hampton Roads' historical sites to experience the story of Jamestown.

That story began in December 1606, when a group of British entrepreneurs formed the Virginia Company of London to mine North America for the gold and other precious materials they believed could be found there in abundance. After James I, King of England, granted the company a charter for a massive parcel of land on the Eastern Seaboard, three ships-under the command of Captain Christopher Newport-were hired to sail a number of the hopeful entrepreneurs and their employees to the New World to set up operations.

On April 26, 1607, after three months at sea, this company of 105 English men and boys landed on a stretch of beach near present-day Shore Drive. Erecting a wooden cross on its sands, they gave thanks for a safe voyage and named the area Cape Henry, after England's prince. The company stayed in the area for two weeks, exploring the nearby woodlands and having several confrontations with the Chesapeake-the native people who had inhabited the area for centuries.
Today this area is First Landing State Park-the most visited park in Virginia. With Cape Henry's historic lighthouse in the background, a stone cross marks the site where the settlers first landed. More than 19 miles of hiking trails through protected salt marsh habitat, dunes, and cypress swamps give visitors a sense of what those first settlers experienced as they explored the region more than four centuries ago.

Leaving Cape Henry, the three ships sailed up the James River to find a permanent operations site. On May 13, 1607, they chose a small island as the location for a fort. Initially called James Fort in honor of England's king, the site was soon christened Jamestown.





"The site for the fort came with several advantages and several disadvantages-many of which would not become fully apparent until much later," Historical Researcher Simon Whistler explains. "The island was an easily defendable point because of the curve of the James River. Surrounded by water on three sides, it was a great place for a fort and was thankfully free of the local population. The bad news was that local natives had not settled on the island because of its poor soil quality, lack of suitable drinking water, swampy land, and the torrent of mosquitos that populated the area."

By June 15, the men had erected a triangular fort with a storehouse, a church, and several wooden houses. A governing council was then established, made up of seven men who had been secretly selected by the owners of the Virginia Company before the ships left England. One week later, Captain Christopher Newport set sail for England, intending to bring back supplies for the fledgling colony and settlers to bolster their numbers.

"In all likelihood, Newport must have had an air of confidence in Jamestown as the small fort disappeared behind him," Simon Whistler notes. "Sadly, life in the New World proved unspeakably difficult, and within just a few months, about 80 percent of those left behind had died."

The settlers' first job was to make a profit for the stockholders of the Virginia Company. Although they were disappointed that gold did not wash up on the beach and gems did not grow in the trees, they realized there was great potential for wealth of other kinds in their new home.

"This area was a wilderness…
living conditions couldn't possibly
have been worse.
The colony barely survived."
-Aaron Sorkin







"When the first settlers reached the shores of Virginia, the thing that struck them was the unlimited extent of natural resources," Historian H. W. Brands explains. "They knew that the forest went back as far as anyone had ever been. They knew that there were fish in the rivers and enough land for generation after generation of farmers. The mindset of the English colonists changed. Until then, natural resources were a restraint. Now natural resources were a liberation."

Early industries that took advantage of Virginia's natural resources included glass manufacturing and pitch and tar production. Unfortunately, the settlers could not devote as much time to their financial responsibilities as the Virginia Company would have liked. They were too busy trying to survive.

"The first few months in Jamestown were nothing short of hellish," Simon Whistler says. "There were so many problems that it's difficult to even know where to start. Many of those who had sailed across the ocean were far from hardy adventurers. Most were upper-class Englishmen who, no doubt, probably knew how to carry themselves with great aplomb but knew next to nothing about farming or work of any kind for that matter. Some had brought servants with them who were equally unprepared for such tasks. Even if they had known how to farm, their efforts were hampered by two major obstacles. They arrived too late in the year to plant crops, and the area was experiencing its worst droughts in 700 years. Then there were rampant diseases that tore through the colony. At that point, the drinking water was being taken from the nearby river and swamp area, which invariably led to vomiting, swelling, and on many occasions, death."

"Ultimately, the goal was simple survival," Historian Aaron Sorkin explains. "This area was a wilderness, to put it mildly. The living conditions couldn't possibly have been worse. The colony barely survived."

"But there was some good news for these enthusiastic but inexperienced settlers," Simon Whistler points out. "The native population, which numbered roughly 14,000, joined together in a confederation under the control of Chief Powhatan. They proved to be more friendly than had been anticipated. The settlers had been greeted warmly with feasting, dancing, and tobacco ceremonies, and as the weather grew colder, food supplied by Powhatan proved vital in keeping the remaining settlers alive. The generosity of the native population toward the settlers was quite remarkable."

The initially good relationship between the Powhatan natives and the new English arrivals soon deteriorated, resulting in several attacks against the fort. The settlers survived, but only by the skin of their teeth.

When the first resupply ships arrived in January 1608, just over 30 settlers remained in Jamestown. This number was boosted by the arrival of 130 more settlers, but the higher number was an immediate problem because food was scarce. Things went from bad to worse for the settlers when, a few days later, a fire broke out in the fort destroying much of the supplies that had just been brought from England. Conditions quickly deteriorated with half the settlers perishing before more supplies and settlers arrived from England that October.






Disease, famine, and sporadic attacks from the neighboring Powhatan took a tremendous toll on the early population of Jamestown. Still, there were also times when trade with the Powhatan revived the colony with food in exchange for glass beads, copper, and iron tools. Captain John Smith was particularly good at this trade. But his strict leadership also made enemies, and a mysterious gunpowder explosion badly injured him, forcing his return to England in October 1609. What followed was in the Winter of 1609 - '10 was Jamestown's darkest hour - the "Starving Time," during which a small number of settlers survived by eating rats, shoe leather, and even the bodies of the deceased.

Still, English settlers continued coming to the settlement. The latecomers had one advantage over the original settlers: they came knowing that life in Virginia would be difficult and that half of them might die from local diseases to which they were not yet immune.

"When you walk on this site,
you're literally walking
in the footsteps of
John Rolf, Pocahontas,
and some of the first Africans
to arrive in English North America."
                                 - David Givens

However, the population slowly grew to the point that, in July of 1619, the Virginia Company of London instructed the settlers to establish a legislature to work with a company-appointed governor. Five years later, the Virginia Company of London finally failed, losing its charter. But Virginia became a Royal Colony, and its legislature has continued to this day as the Virginia General Assembly - the oldest continuous legislative body in North America.

While Jamestown failed as a business venture, its eventual success as a colony was foundational in the history of the United States. While many Americans mistakenly believe that the nation began when the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock in 1620, those who paid attention in elementary school history class know that America was actually born 13 years earlier at Jamestown.

Today, locals and tourists can relive the Jamestown story at two different sites right here in Hampton Roads.

The first site is Historic Jamestowne - the actual island on which the original fort and town stood. It houses a beautiful museum filled with genuine artifacts from the early 1600s. Visitors can walk around the brick foundations of many original buildings and watch teams of dedicated archeologists at work.

"We are essentially dirt surgeons," David Givens, Director of Archeology at Historic Jamestowne, declares. "We dig in the dirt and figure out the story that is lying underneath us. The special thing about Jamestown is that it is the real place where the story of our nation's beginning came to pass. When you walk on this site, you're literally walking in the footsteps of John Rolf, Pocahontas, and some of the first Africans to arrive in English North America. Archeologists are on-site - sometimes seven days a week, weather permitting, and we're constantly finding new things. The ropes are right up against the dig sites, and our favorite thing is for people to come up and ask us questions: 'What are you doing?' 'What are you finding?' 'Here's a history I thought I knew about; tell me about that history.' To be able to be paid to do that kind of work is absolutely phenomenal."
The second site is the nearby Jamestown Settlement. An impressive living-history museum with acres of indoor and outdoor exhibits, the settlement features a replica of the original Jamestown Fort, a recreation of a 17th century Powhatan village, and exact reproductions of the three ships that brought the first settlers to Virginia. Living history interpreters, costumed as English settlers and sailors, and Powhatan natives, lead tours, give demonstrations and answer all questions.

As residents of Hampton Roads, we are fortunate beyond measure to have so much history right here in our own backyard. Though four hundred and fourteen years now separate us from Jamestown's founding, its legacy can be seen across the region - not only in historical sites but also in the names of rivers and waterways, cities, counties, and streets. Most importantly, Jamestown's legacy remains in that way of life that the world calls "American."